Malaga, Spain was the last stop on the tour. We planned to spend a couple of days here, thinking it would be a rather small, quaint town. For the record, it’s a very large city; not a picturesque coastal town. It took me ages to find a decent guidebook, but find one I did. I’ve talked about it before:
Footsteps Guide – Malaga Spain
If you will be stopping in Malaga, Spain for any reason, get this guide. As a walking guide, it needs more street names or more anchors so that walkers know for certain they are on the right path, but as a preparation guide–choosing what you want to see and do–it’s an absolute necessity. Once in Malaga, stop at a tourist kiosk and get a city map–the guide does not include one and a map of some kind will help you stay oriented.
If you are arriving on a cruise and the cruise ship says it will be in port at 5 a.m. be aware that they are not likely to let you off the cruise until 6 or well-after. Also be aware that when you do get off, the disembarking procedures are a bit on the chaotic side–do *not* schedule a flight out of Malaga in the morning. You aren’t likely to make the flight. There were a number of passengers frantically trying to get off the ship, find their luggage (you are not allowed to take your own luggage off–it gets put into a giant holding area where you get to hunt it down), find a taxi (there were not enough in port that early in the morning) and try to make the airport by 9. Not a good time.
We arrived in the dark–there went plans to stroll to breakfast. We got a taxi, which took us to our beautiful, reasonably price hotel, Hotel Villa Guadalupe, up on a hill overlooking parts of the city. No one was at the front desk at that early hour (7:30ish?) but the taxi driver very nicely called the number on the buzzer and the owner soon arrived. We got our luggage checked in, but our room had not yet been vacated/cleaned, so we sat in the lobby for a while (exhausted) and had coffee and rolls provided by the hotel. The hotel staff was splendid the entire trip. If you are able to walk steep inclines to reach the hotel from the bus stop (or willing to spend money on taxis) I *highly* recommend this hotel.
After our rest, we took a bus back into the main part of Malaga. The walk to the bus stop was about 1/3 to 1/4 of a mile *straight* downhill, through back streets. This was fine for me, but a bit of a difficult walk for mom and her bum knee. We managed. The bus was about 1.10 euro per person; you pay the driver when you get on. Make a careful note of the area–the bus did not stop exactly on the other side of the street from the bus stop (the stop was actually several yards earlier, thus making it a bit difficult to figure out.) The driver could not help us because the hotel is located in a neighborhood; it’s not a “main” location that a bus driver will know.
Well worth seeing was the Alcazaba, an 11the century castle built by the moors. It’s not expensive to tour (self-guided for a few euros) and there are a few museum pieces inside. The courtyards/buildings are very interesting and the whole tour is very pretty. As with most places we were at in Europe, there are few signs describing what you are looking at. In this case, the footsteps guide mentioned above provided nice background information on the building.

- La Alcazaba

- moorish archways in La Alcazaba

- hallways/paths in moorish castle in Spain

- La Alcazaba gardens/courtyard

- moorish castle museum pieces

- La Alcazaba gardens

- Malaga Cathedral

- Spanish Countryside

- A castle seen while driving in Spain

- El Torcal - Spain National Park

- El Torcal - Spain National Park
The Malaga Cathedral (one picture above) was a very nice church to visit–gorgeous from both the inside and outside; well-worth the small fee.
We wanted to see Flamenco dancing while in Spain–but unfortunately such dancing starts very late: 11:30 or so. We were told by one place that it started at 9:30–so we showed up for dinner at 9, but then found out *piano* music started at 9:30. The flamenco wasn’t until 11:30 or so. We didn’t stay. The food was awful, and we felt we had been misled when we asked at the establishment earlier in the day. My Spanish isn’t perfect, but “Flamenco” and “What time does it start?” is not really close to “Piano music.”
That brings us to the other huge disappointment in Malaga: Food. In my defense, let me say that I did my homework before going. I researched, got recommendations and even cooked paella for myself. In one case, a recommended place was not open on weekends, so we had to just pick a place nearby because siesta was nearing, and we knew a lot of places would be closing for a few hours. We supposedly ordered meatballs in tomato sauce, and chicken with fries. What we got was bread balls in tomato sauce, and chicken and fries sitting in an inch of oil. I won’t dwell on it, but if you go to Spain, plan on finding a grocery and getting snacks until you can get decent recommendations (which were generally in a much, much higher price range. For good food, it appeared you had to spend fifteen euros or more per person and even then there was no guarantee you’d like it–fried food was plentiful and veggies relatively uncommon.) We did order paella at a restaurant, but I don’t believe any saffron was used. Methinks that tourism has made restaurants a tad too eager to take advantage of tourists–tomato sauce with very fishy-fish was served on an outside patio that featured stray cats in the bushes and at least one beggar chased off by our waiter. Stray cats and beggars were quite common in the city.
I understand that “tapas” is the proper way to eat the evening meal–strolling around various establishments sampling snack-sized portions. My mother did order tapas for her dinner and it was of higher quality than the paella. With my parents not extremely mobile and me not being a late-night person, strolling for tapas held no appeal.
The second day, rather than fight the city crowds, we opted to hire a driver. The hotel helped us with this arrangement as I had not planned this in advance–they were wonderful, as was our driver. He took us to El Torcal, a couple of hours outside Malaga. We enjoyed the scenery on the way there and on the way back. He also picked a nice restaurant in the mountains where the food was reasonably priced and of higher quality (still a lot of fried things!) We enjoyed our day out in the countryside, but be aware that El Torcal is extremely crowded on the weekends. Hiking is more like strolling a sidewalk in a busy town–lots of people. The area is well-kept and pleasant. When we left the park, we sat in traffic for at least 40 minutes while people were trying to park alongside the road. The parking went on for at least a mile and there were buses trying to get in, cars, people walking, etc.
All in all, I wish that we had eaten at least once at our hotel. It was expensive, but I suspect the food would have been good. There were two or three museums mentioned in the guide that I would also have liked to see had there been more time. Some places were closed on weekends (the bull fighting museum) at that time of year. To see a bull fight, we could have hired a driver or caught a shuttle bus to a nearby town (there were none in Malaga while we were visiting.) I wasn’t particularly interested in bull fighting (read: Did *not* want to go under any circumstances) but the hotel would have helped us find a way to see one had we wanted to find one. The fights ran about 50 euros per person and generally included some flamenco dancing from what I understand.